Trekking through Gunung Mulu

For some reason, perhaps an imaginary lack of time or money, we decided that two weeks would be sufficient time to see the best of borneo. after experiencing some of the world's premier diving, both ian and i remarked that it would be foolish to ever dive again. so with that activity curtailed, we decided to go explore caves and jungles.

I can say with absolute confidence that the most awe inspiring video footage i have ever seen is in the BBC's Planet Earth documentary series. Thus, it was with absurdly high expectations that we arrived in Gunung Mulu National Park. It contains the worlds largest system of limestone caves, including both the girthiest cave in the world (Deer Cave, a prominant part of the Caves Section of Planet Earth), and the eighth longest (Clearwater Cave, still being explored to determine it's full length). Deer Cave, for those of you who haven't yet viewed the series, is large enough to fly a 747 jumbo jet through.

This is the Garden of Eden, where Deer Cave collapsed.

We decided to do a 5 day trek through the jungle, which took us to 5 stupendus caves and The Pinnacles. The caves themselves were remarkable, but the most impressive spectacle was the daily exodus of bats fr0m deer cave. Three million bats leave the cave at around 6 pm every day, evoking a mile long black addar, twisting through the last of the daylight. These nocturnal hunters did us a great service in the five days we were in their jungle. Although we somehow forgot bug repellant, the jungle was effectively cleared of mosquitos every evening.
The Bat Exodus

On our third day, we hiked 1,200 vertical meters up to the Pinnacles on Gunung Api. The hike is a relentless 45 degree slog, and cost each of us three liters of sweat. Our guide, Christopher, had to take a break every 20 minutes or so to smoke a cigarette, in an incredible testimony to the strength of his lungs. The lookout is guarded by a vicious shrew, who guarentees your safety in exchange for some bread or rice. once bribed, he will eat from your hand and sing beautiful songs. The pinnacles look like the tops of the towering cliffs of El Nido, chopped off and reinstalled in the jungle. This is probably the worst place in the world to try to land after sky diving. Pointing out pointy things at the pinnacles.


the monkey bridge, half way along the headhunters trail

After a few games of Scrabble with the members of the large British caving expedition, we set off for an 11.8 km hike along the headhunters trail. our guide seemed inclined to give us as little information as possible, but we gleamed that it was the path used hundreds of years ago by headhunters returning with their prizes. they would drag their canoes along wooden sledges back the river they lived on. We spent the night in a long house, and played thumper and screw the dealer with our german companions and the guide Nordie. Nordie is a bit of a fool, and a complete mystery to us both. After seeing only minimal wildlife, monkees and hornbills were spotted in the last hour.